Cycling
How to choose appropriate small chainring and cassette setups for touring bikes to handle loaded climbs with ease.
When planning loaded touring rides, selecting the right small chainring and cassette ratio is essential for maintaining cadence, conquering steep climbs, and preserving efficiency across long days in the saddle.
Published by
Peter Collins
July 26, 2025 - 3 min Read
For touring riders, a compact chainring paired with a versatile cassette opens up a wide range of gears without forcing you into extremes. Start by assessing your typical terrain, weight carried, and preferred cadence. A small chainring—often 22, 24, or 26 teeth depending on leg speed and gearing goals—lets you turn easier gears on steep grades while keeping pedal pressure manageable. The corresponding cassette, commonly featuring 11–32 or 11–34 teeth, broadens your mid-range and low-end options. When selecting, consider your bike’s bottom bracket height, the chainline, and chainstay clearance to avoid rubbing under load. Importantly, test gear feels with a loaded setup before embarking, refining choices that fit your personal style.
Beyond numbers, the physics of cadence and torque shapes gear decisions on tour. A smaller chainring reduces pedal force required at steep climbs, enabling you to hold a sustainable rhythm rather than jerk up steep grades. Pairing it with a wider cassette expands the range at the top and bottom, smoothing transitions between flats, rollers, and long, steady climbs. However, too small a chainring can sacrifice speed on descents or gentle grades, while an overly wide cassette can leave you spinning out when the grade relaxes. A practical approach is to map a few typical routes, note the steepest pitches, and tune your gearing to cover those without zigzagging across the cassette.
Test, iterate, and tailor gearing to evolving touring conditions.
The practical process starts with your current gearing and a realistic load profile. Weigh food, water, tools, and spares, then estimate total bike mass. With that figure, calculate a comfortable cadence target—often around 70–85 rpm for long climbs—with a hill profile in mind. Use a gear calculator or a simple chart to explore combinations, then simulate a few sections on a training ride. If you frequently shift to the smallest ring on climbs, you may need a larger capacity cassette or a slightly larger chainring to prevent frequent red-to-gold shifts. Adaptability matters: you want a setup that stays efficient as your load varies during the tour.
In practice, a common starting point for capable loaded touring is a 24-tooth inner chainring paired with an 11–34 or 11–36 cassette. This combination yields comfortable climbs without forcing extreme leg angles, while still offering enough top-end speed on flats. If you’re performing mostly gradual ascents with long grades, consider 23/24-tooth rings with wider-range cassettes to preserve cadence. If your route features steep but brief ascents, a 28-tooth outer ring with a mid-length cassette allows quick acceleration out of corners. Remember to verify derailleur capacity and indexing compatibility; mismatches create skipped gears and added fatigue during rides.
Effective gear layout requires balancing range, steps, and shift quality.
A useful way to test is to simulate loaded climbs on a controlled route, using real wind, slope, and stop-start dynamics. Start with your planned setup and ride at your target cadence, noting where you reach the limit of the gear range or where cadence dips. If you often need to stand and grind, you likely need more low-end gearing, which can be achieved with a smaller inner ring or a wider cassette. On the other hand, if you rarely use the top gears, you may be over-gearred and could drop a few teeth to gain efficiency. Live testing with actual loads makes gear choices feel intuitive rather than theoretical.
After initial testing, adjust the chainline and derailleur capacity to optimize performance. A misaligned chainline increases friction and wear, especially when carrying extra weight. Check that the derailleur can reach the smallest and largest sprockets smoothly under load, and ensure limit screws allow full travel without overshooting. Consider a clutch-equipped rear derailleur to reduce chain slap on rough roads and cobbles. If your bike allows, a two-by system with a dedicated low gear and a tighter spacing on the upper gears can preserve crisp shifts while touring.
Real-world testing confirms ideal setups under load and wind.
Another factor to weigh is chain wear and compatibility. A narrow-wide chainring design can improve chain retention on rough descents, and a robust chain is essential when loaded. If you ride in regions with big hills and frequent washboard, a slightly longer cage rear derailleur helps maintain chain tension and avoids derailment over obstacles. Consider a compact-to-mid compact setup in combination with a wide-range cassette if you regularly cope with extreme grades. This approach reduces the risk of dropped chains and improves overall confidence when moving through varied terrain.
Your choice of chain and drivetrain also interacts with tire width and rim clearance. Wider tires can add rolling resistance, but they improve traction on loose surfaces and rough grades, potentially letting you push bigger gears with less effort. Ensure the chainring-to-big-ring gap remains clear of the wheel when the suspension or fenders are in use. If you install fenders or racks, verify that the chainring guards and derailleur pulleys have sufficient clearance. A well-tuned setup with proper chainline minimizes rubbing and optimizes power transfer during loaded climbs.
Long-haul wisdom includes measured experimentation and field testing.
When choosing a small chainring, personal leg speed guides the decision more than generic strength alone. Some riders prefer a 22-tooth inner ring for steep routes, while others can manage with a 24-tooth ring and a wider cassette. The key is to enable a cadence that feels sustainable for hours. Keep a notebook or a log of ride conditions, cadence, and gear choices to identify patterns. This data helps you adjust your setup gradually rather than making abrupt changes. If you’re upgrading, consider the compatibility of your current shifters, derailleurs, and chain with the new ratios to avoid compatibility issues.
In addition to gearing, technique matters for efficient climbing with a loaded bike. Practice smooth, controlled pedal strokes and maintain an upright posture to prevent fatigue in the back and shoulders. Use a steady breathing pattern and imagine keeping your chest open to maximize oxygen flow on long ascents. Pedal in the lower gears with a relaxed grip and avoid forcing the pedals at high cadences when tired. A well-executed climbing rhythm helps you stay efficient even when your gearing isn’t perfect, reducing strain and conserving energy for later mileage.
The final step is road-testing your suspension, if any, and ensuring that your loaded bike handles cornering, braking, and descents safely. A broader gear range gives you confidence through varied slopes, while a tighter step in the middle gears improves smoothness on rolling terrain. Make sure your braking system is not overwhelmed by the added mass, and adjust brake balance for predictable stopping. If you ride often with a passenger or extra gear, a practical bottom line is to keep the weight distribution even and maintain a consistent contact patch for traction on challenging sections.
In conclusion, gear selection for loaded touring is a blend of science and experience. Start with a reasonable compact front chainring and a wide enough rear cassette to cover steep grades, then refine based on route profiles, cadence targets, and personal comfort. Regular on-road testing under real conditions will reveal subtle gaps and help you optimize shift quality, chain wear, and power delivery. If you document your rides and adjust gradually, you’ll develop a dependable setup you can rely on across seasons and landscapes, turning challenging climbs into predictable, manageable portions of your journey.
